You can’t say that about the Lake District. B&H warn that it’s a tiring, tortuous path and so it proved. £16 on average but, as he said, it was only open to groups. So, if you want to walk the trail, do it now rather than later. Anyway, that’s Lochan nam Breac in the distance. Dafür gibt es abends ein trockenes Dach über dem Kopf. About 1 km south of Loch Ailsh, I saw the first and only sign post for the Cape Wrath Trail which indicated a minor detour from the usual route along the river. If you're planning to make the trek, here's what you have to look forward to. Und das natürlich an einem der regnerischsten Tage. A new guide by Iain Harper, just published by Cicerone (April 2013), should also increase its popularity – which is good for bunkhouse owners, not so good for walkers seeking splendid isolation in the Highlands. Profile views - 153 Day Seven: Strathcarron to Achnashellach – eight miles. Und dann geht es los, vor mir liegen drei Wochen und gut 350 km Abenteuer. But that was in 1997 and things have changed a bit since  then since Coulin Pinewoods is now a sloping landscape of bleached wood, the whole lot having been felled to encourage growth by native species. After breakfast and a good rummage  through Gerry’s piles of yellowing outdoor magazines, I was back down to the road to find the old track up to the Coulin Pass again. However, you surely won’t have forgotten that somewhere up ahead B&H will ask you to exit the glen in a dramatic and tiring fashion. Before I went (in June 2012) I met a young bloke working in an outdoor shop who said he’d just followed the CWT as far as Ullapool. The reason why I missed it was because I was following another track through the pass; the reason I found it was because I had a sudden feeling that I was in the wrong pass and walking to the wrong loch. Bereits am ersten Tag mache ich gefühlt alle Stimmungen durch, bin begeistert vom Cona Glen, motiviert, die Tour zu schaffen und immer wieder auch fertig. The craggy tops and smooth rock faces enclosing the loch now looked interesting rather than forbidding and I began to see why B&H recommended the site as a fine place to wild camp. This track cuts steeply upwards through the forest north of the A890 and marks the route of an old drove road between Torridon and Craig – which is where Gerry’s Hostel stands. Der CWT führt von Fort William zum nordwestlichsten Punkt Schottlands, dem Cape Wrath. B&H’s comical advice at this point is that you should turn left at the burn ‘at a point identified by a tree on a rock’, walk upstream for about 1km and then head NW up the side of the glen. Irgendwie zieht es mich im Urlaub meist nach Norden. Here, in about one square foot of grass on the walk down to Attadale, are four or five typical bog wild flowers including bog cotton and bog asphodel. One of the pleasures of doing the CWT is summer is the profusion of wild flowers. They mean it splits, so you keep to the lower one near the river. Nach knapp 2 Wochen auf dem Trail stelle ich fest, dass Berge immer noch anstrengend sind. This kind of thing is great for those who don’t want or need exact directions; it’s not so good for those who, unlike Ranulph Fiennes, do not have 100% confidence in their navigational abilities. In contrast to the jagged stony beasts to the south,  some of the mountains visible around Strathcarron are more whale-backed and hide their bulk in thick low clouds, as if sulkily reluctant to show their true face. “But it isn’t, the real wilderness is the land around here, it’s just that there’s nothing specific to attract people there.”. Day Six: Camas-luinie to Strathcarron – 11 miles. Als ich vom Cape Wrath Trail, vom CWT, lese, will ich herausfinden, ob ich den packe. I stayed at the Kinlochewe Hotel (the attached bunkhouse was full) and filled up with supplies at the big village store and Post Office. B&H write that there is no “formal path” at the burn. „Trail“ in diesem Fall mit „Weg“ zu übersetzen mag aber bereits irreführend sein. I first heard about the Cape Wrath Ultra in 2015 but couldn’t take part in the 2016 race as I was already committed to another event. A steep walk/scramble got me to the top and, lo, I soon saw a path and the line of iron fence posts that B&H say take you over the pass. Then I thought: if I could follow the river to Lochan nam Breac, further up the glen, I could pick up the ‘defined’ path from there without all the hassle of having to go up the side of the glen. As you do  you can clearly see the mouth of the pass ahead. Then he said that the Brooke/ Hinchcliffe route was out of date because paths they described no longer existed. Posted on May 18, 2017 November 13, 2019; 6 comments; by Roel; The final part, where I struggle with myself as well as the last bit of rugged terrain before reaching the lighthouse at Cape Wrath. As the track begins to descend, it enters a narrow gorge which forces you to clamber from rock to rock and jump from one side of the river to the other. “Steep ascent. If you like, use this post to tell readers why you started this blog and what you plan to do with it. In truth, I hadn’t given the matter a lot thought but the bunkhouse owners persuaded me that getting a lift early the next morning would not be a problem. At first I’d thought they were patches of snow but as I got closer they turned into big pegged out white sheets. Reports. But first there was an 8am bus journey back down the road to the crossroads at Drumsallie, where B&H’s CWT starts in earnest. The Cape Wrath Trail is considered the hardest hiking route in the United Kingdom. Snipe? We talked about the rocks of the area and I asked him about some sheets I’d seen on the moorland above Kinlochewe two days earlier. The other bears right and climbs steadily to the same loch on a wide track past the Heights of Kinlochewe. There is certainly a faint 4×4 track heading in the right direction and I would recommend taking this to make life easier. Wie auf dem Foto in meinem Buch. Ich liebe Wanderkarten und würde mein Handy nur im Notfall benutzen. Kurz vor dem Ziel bleibt in einiger Entfernung ein Kleinbus stehen. As you plod from the loch the jaws of the pass seem like portals to another world and any feelings of isolation you have up here have will probably be magnified. Aug 06, 2014; Choice of maps is a particularly important decision when planning an expedition on the Cape Wrath Trail. It was obviously good for fresh water, but bad for midges, and so I packed quickly and early and cooked breakfast half way up the steep wide track to Dundonnell. The redcoats used mortars to shell a combined force of Highlanders and Spanish troops, which caused the Scots to retreat and the Spaniards to surrender. Der Rucksack wird trotzdem schwer genug. I moved to the  left and stumbled across peat gullies to another mound. After tackling a very, very steep gravel path the way levels out on a poor path that heads over the pass between the stoney round tops of Carnan Cruithneachd and Creag na h-lolaire. The going becomes rougher in the pass but the way is obvious. As it turned out, I had met a character at the Strathcarron Hotel the night before who offered me a lift to Gerry’s Hostel, a few miles beyond the station. With my trekking poles lost or broken, and the compass having been dropped somewhere beside the River Carnach, I didn’t at this point feel like I should be trusted with the navigation of the Beardmore Glacier. Die letzten Tage laufe ich nicht mehr allein. And there are supplies available at Gerry’s bunkhouse, a few miles up the road from Strathcarron, which is where I headed after a night at the Strathcarron Hotel – or at least in a field over the road, which is where they let me camp when I found out all the rooms were full. Hilfreich wäre es, wenn ich nicht immer erst zu spät feststellen würde, dass auch ein halbwegs vernünftiger Weg existiert. Ein Weg, dem der Wanderer einfach folgen könnte, ist nur im geringen Maße zu finden. A rarely seen example of a human being heading down to the pass. Irgendwie fühlt es sich gerade schon nach Zieleinlauf an. More. The lower path continues downhill and leads to Lochan Torr a Choit, which you can see in the middle distance. The Cape Wrath Trail takes you to beaches, glens and mountaintops that see very few humans pass by in a year. Ich liebe Wege. Cape Wrath Trail Gear List. A little below here the path heads steeply down to Glen Shiel and the main road to Shiel Bridge. Ich brauche noch über 2 Stunden bis zur Bothy Sourlies, taste mich vorwärts auf rutschigen Steinen. And their names, they said, were Mary and Joseph. Although the track is yet to be noted by the OS Explorer map for this area, it is marked by a big Scottish Rights of Way Society sign on the road about a kilometre south of Gerry’s Hostel. Making coffee in a midge-free breeze also gave me the pleasure of soaking up one of the walk’s greatest backwards views: the wide, glacial landscape that includes the terrain back to the mountains enclosing Loch an Nid. It supports a new guidebook to the route which will be published by Cicerone. Basically, there are two ways to get to Loch an Nid via Bealach na Croise from Kinlochewe. Here, as you follow winding forestry tracks through Dorusduain Wood  you should notice that the conifers are so dense that almost no light filters through to the forest floor. The second woodland of the day, above Kinlochewe, gave B&H same problems since they report that blown trees meant it took them an hour to cover the 1.5km through it – not that they were meant to walk through it at all. Ullapool bis Inchnadamph. What to expect from the Cape Wrath Trail . Bezahlen ist in Schottland weitestgehend bargeldlos möglich, fernab von der Zivilisation gibt es aber doch ein paar Ausnahmen. Just inside the door there was an older man who quickly asked me who I was and what I was doing there. B&H remark that the descent to Sourlies is ‘unsparing, undefined and steep in places.’ It is steep, yes, but it is on a clear path and, as you descend further, you may, as I did, enjoy intoxicating natural perfumes blending the smells of wild flowers, wood and water. But, for now, Shiel Bridge was important because of several outstanding attractions – showers at the campsite and a shop at the nearby filling station where I restocked with food for the next leg. Since there is nowhere to stay there they must assume that walkers will wild camp. Ignore it and continue straight on or you’ll get badly lost. “When I see flowers and plants I just kick them out of the way.” At Corrie Hallie, you can continue over the hill to Ullapool. Or, you know, get a good GPS device. Blog; Hiking the Cape Wrath Trail – Part 5. Zu Hause auf der Couch blättere ich mit reichlich Fernweh in „1001 Wanderwege“ auf fast eben so vielen Seiten und verliebe mich in ein Foto – ein Leuchtturm an einer traumhaften Steilküste. After a while the beast Gulvain shows its face. Mein großes Abenteuer ist zu Ende. Another Cape Wrath Trail blog? Als Ziel hatten wir uns den Norden Schottlands ausgesucht: Den Cape Wrath Trail. Whatever the reasoning, this should be an easier day walking. Ich sauge alles in mich auf, gehe Freunden und Kollegen auf die Nerven. Mein Vorhaben beeindruckt und ich werde von ihnen mit zusätzlichem Proviant versorgt, bin noch Tage später vom Inhalt der einen oder anderen Tüte überrascht. When planning my Cape Wrath Trail trip this year I expected to walk it ultrapacking-style, going for long days with no stops at a steady 5km/h pace. Even so, I completely missed the iron gate that B&H mention as having seen in 1983. To me, the reputation can’t be due to the length of the daily sections;  many long-distance paths have much greater daily mileages. Nebel auch. Nie ohne Wanderstöcke nach Schottland! Event sign. The path is not waymarked and has many variations. By the way, there are also some notes in the hut suggesting that the windows in the bothy have been installed back to front. Outdoor; Photography; Hacking; About Me; Cape Wrath Trail – von Ullapool bis …. Cape Wrath Trail Blog. The rufty tufty assessment really comes down to the sections of rough, pathless walking – like today – compounded by the sense of isolation and distance from human community. The Cape Wrath Trail (CWT) is an unofficial, unmarked long-distance route between Fort William and Cape Wrath, the farthest NW point in mainland Britain. Ich übernachte in der Bothy in Barisdale in Gesellschaft von drei Schotten. Day 2: Drumsallie to Strathan/Loch Arkaig – ten miles. Although one hostel owner did make comment that the Caledonian Canal route is a pretty boring way of starting this great walk, I’m not suggesting here that the CWT should become standardised.